Septic Services, Inc. Blog - Septic Services, Inc.

October 27, 2018 by admin Leave a Comment

Is Holiday Septic Pumping Necessary?

If it’s been awhile since your last septic pumping, the holiday season is a great time to knock that off your to-do list. I know it’s seems like one more thing to worry about with all that is coming up on the holiday season, but it is well worth the effort of squeezing it in. Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Year’s, and even the Super Bowl all add strain to your septic system.

During the holidays you look forward to your family coming home and having large dinners. With the influx of people comes a surge of water usage. Think about it. There is cooking, cleaning, showers, toilet flushes, and college kids bringing home all the clothes in their possession to be washed. All of that water can cause harm to your septic system.

Septic Tank and Holidays

When you use a lot more water than normal the first thing that happens is that the septic tank is churned up more than usual. This causes the solids and sludge to exit the tank before they have a chance to float to the top or fall to the bottom. If you have not pumped your tank in a while you have a greater chance of churning up the solids that should stay in your tank. Once the grease and sludge leave your tank they can cause harm to your drain field.

If you want to learn more about how a septic tank works and how to maintain your septic tank click here.

Drain Field and Holidays

The drain field is the next component that is affected by the holiday rush. The main issue is the sludge and grease that can potentially exit the tank. These will clog up the soil in your drain field causing it to lose its ability to drain. Over time the accumulation of sludge and grease will keep your drain field from draining entirely and the sewage will start to come up onto the ground. The water usage by itself can create problems with the drain field. The drain field needs time to rest so that the water can drain and the bacteria in the drain field can eat away at the sludge. Even if you pump your tank after the holidays you can help your drain field by giving it time to rest while the tanks are filling back up.

Learn more about drain fields and their maintenance by clicking here.

With so many holidays strung together (don’t forget the Super Bowl too) your septic system needs proper care and maintenance. If it has been more than two years since your last pumping, give us a call and we will gladly schedule you in for a pump out.

November 25, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

Building Near A Septic Tank and Drain Field

When you are remodeling your home it can be easy to forget that you can affect any septic system by building near a septic tank and drain field. This is also true for those who are buying a home and are planning to renovate. It’s best to know exactly where your tank and drain field are located. This will keep new building projects from obstructing the routine maintenance of your system or damaging your septic system.

Before embarking on any major project that may involve your septic system; get a good foundation of knowledge on septic systems. Check out our ebook below. It is a great resource that will make you feel much more comfortable about owning, maintaining, and remodeling near a septic system.

Building Near a Septic Tank

What could happen if you neglect finding your system? Your septic tank may be in the path of a heavy construction vehicle. Breaking your septic tank lid would be the least of your concerns. The weight of construction equipment may cause cracks in the septic tank. These may not be evident immediately after it occurs. But over time, the cracks will develop and cause serious structural concerns. A tank is usually marked in some way making it easy to spot. If the path of any vehicle is near the tank it is a good idea to find the edges of the tank and draw an outline. This will ensure that the driver knows exactly where the tank is located and to give the tank some space. The septic tank is more likely to be in danger if the construction is near the perimeter of the house. Besides damaging your tank, construction can keep a pumper from accessing the tank.

Decks, patios, and other structures near a septic tank can always run the risk of covering the manhole to the tank. This not only makes the tank difficult to find, but in some cases impossible to maintain. The lack of regular pumping of your tank will be a costly mistake, which can also affect you again when you sell. If you have a deck or patio with no access to the tank, you may have to rip out the structure wasting all the money spent to build it.

Building Near a Drain Field (Leach Field)

If a drain field is damaged it can cost a lot more to replace. The biggest issue that can arise from construction near a drain field is the damage caused by heavy construction equipment. The weight of many large trucks driving over a drain field will crack the pipes in the drain field and compact the soils. Compacted soil in a drain field will decrease the drain field’s ability to drain. The air pockets in between the soil is what the effluent fills up. If there are no air pockets to fill, the effluent will be forced to go up towards the top of the soil and spill out onto the ground.

If you can keep any new structure off the drain field it is best to do so. Here are a few examples of how building near a drain field could potentially cause a problem.

Problems Building Near a Drain Field

An in-ground pool will more than likely need a permit to be built, but it is important that it is kept away from your drainfield. The most obvious problem would be cutting into your drainfield. But even getting too close can compact the surrounding soils and decrease the drain field’s life expectancy.
An above ground pool adds some weight to the soil. When it drains out it will seep down into the drainfield adding a good bit of water.
Many times we will see sheds placed on top of leach fields. There is a chance the weight of the shed can cause the some of the soils to compact, but it also invites traffic from machinery.
Larger sheds and pole barns should definitely be kept off of drainfields. They are certainly heavy enough to cause problems. They are also big enough to hold heavy vehicles that will only add to the damage.
Some people will plant gardens on top of the drain field. Make sure you are not planting anything with large enough roots to get down into the pipes. There is typically 2 feet of soil cover, but this can vary. It’s best to be cautious and place the garden somewhere else if in doubt.
Fence posts tend to be placed around gardens. Make sure the posts are not too big that they are digging down into the drain field stone (aggregate).
Any large posts or poles that are placed too deep can cause a problem. This can be from decks, flagpoles, and large fences
Replacing a septic tank can cause a leach field to become damaged. The large trucks needed to bring in the concrete septic tank will harm the soils. A plastic septic tank is a great way to avoid the problem altogether. They are light enough to be carried by hand.

Now that you know what risks are involved with building near your septic system, we can get into how to prevent any problems from rising. The best form of prevention is to know where each component of your system is placed.

How to Locate Your Septic System

It’s easy to lose track of where your system is located. Many people only see the whole system during the home buying inspection process. If you still have access to your report there may be information on its location, or even a 2-D sketch of the system’s layout. We will take pictures with our report to give a better reference for the system components’ placement.

If you no longer have your report, you can always have someone come out and locate your system. This will not only be helpful for construction but is needed for proper maintenance.

Taking precaution and a little bit of common sense will go a long way when doing any building near a septic tank and drain field.

If you would like to learn much more about owning a septic system and how to take care of it click here to learn about our ebook.

September 5, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

Septic Inspection Guide for Buyers and Sellers

When a septic inspection is needed for a home sale, it can become overwhelming. You have so much that needs to be done for the home sale. Plus, you are taking in a lot of information in areas that may be new to you. On top of all that, a septic inspection can come with lots of extra charges and testing you weren’t expecting. This guide should help you clear through some of the fog of buying a home with a septic system and the different tests needed. We will cover the process of septic system inspections and how you can prepare. Before we get started into the process it’s important to understand our code of conduct for running these inspections.

Are you cramming for an upcoming septic inspection? Check out our ebook below. It is easily skimmable, and filled with in depth knowledge on septic inspections, maintenance, how a septic system works, and much more. Check out the link below.

Our Philosophy

No matter who we work for, we believe it is our ethical responsibility to make sure the septic system is a working utility for the next buyer. Whenever we show up to a home we ask ourselves the question: Would I buy a home with this septic system?

We also believe that we are here to help, not hinder, the home sale. We want to see homes go to settlement, because home sales are the reason we have a job. This means that we don’t add up unnecessary repairs or testing beyond what’s needed. We are not here to get as much money as we can out of a home sale, but to make sure the septic system is working.

Septic Inspection Process

The septic inspection process has a simple overall plan. We work down the line of the septic system and check every component. This process follows the flow of the sewage; starting from inside and ending at the drain field. We’ll begin by gathering as much information as needed. We ask about the septic system history, maintenance, and location. From here we can begin inspecting.

Sewer Line Inspection

The first component we start with is the building sewer pipeline. We check to see if there are pipelines that should be going into the sewer line that are not connected. This would include grey water discharges such as the sink and washing machine. We are also looking for lines that shouldn’t be going into the sewer line that are. For example a wet basement sump pump. This is also a good time to check if there is an alarm for your pump tank. This will be helpful later in the inspection. We’ll then open up your sewer line and inspect the line all the way to your tank.

We use a push camera and take videos and pictures of the interior of your sewer line. This allows us to show evidence of any problems. Most inspectors will just flush a toilet and try to tell if there are any problems based on the way the water comes out at the end of the pipe. This can be used to check for sags, but is not completely accurate. A push camera inspection allows us to see much more detail. For example breaks, disjointed pipes, root intrusion, and deteriorated pipes. Next we can look at the structural integrity of the septic tank

Septic Tank Inspection

Now we are ready to look at your septic tank(s). When we open up your tank we look at the liquid level inside. Many will see how full the tank looks and think that it is ready to pump. This is actually a good sign. The septic tank needs to be full in order for it to spill over to the next component. If it is too low that means either the the septic tank has a crack or the tank was recently pumped out. Now if the liquid level in the tank is too high then there is a problem, but a tank should look close to full whenever opened. After the tank is opened up and we verify the proper working height of the liquid level, we will move on to looking at the tank’s interior condition.

If you want an overview of how a septic tank works and the problems that can arise inside the septic tank click here.

When inspecting the inside of the tank we use a digital camera and take pictures of the interior of the tank. This gives us a better view of the tank’s interior, and, if there are any problems, it allows both parties to see the issues in plain view. All the septic tanks must be opened up and inspected. If there are two chambers to a tank they must both be opened and inspected.

After the septic inspection report is finished a pumper will come out before settlement and pump out the tanks. At this time he/she can shine a flashlight down into the tanks and look for any cracks below the liquid level. This cannot be done until the condition of the drain field is determined. We will explain more about this later.

In some septic systems there will be an extra tank used for holding the pump. These work a little differently than typical septic tanks.

Septic Pump Tank Inspection

The pump tank is used in certain drain field types. A pump tank has a different purpose than the septic tank. The pump tank is not meant to treat sewage like a septic tank, instead it houses the pump and receives enough effluent to pump up to the drain field. We will check the interior structure of the tank but we also need to look at the functioning of the pump.

The pump runs by a float switch dangling above it. When that switch floats and turns upside down the pump will run and push the treated sewage towards the drain field. Above the float switch is an alarm switch. It turns on through the same method, but instead of turning on the pump it runs an alarm. This alarm lets the homeowner know that the pump isn’t running. At this point a homeowner needs to call a pumper to remove the sewage and take a look at the problem. The alarm is your last line of defense against sewage filling up to a point where it will spill out of the tank. Once we examine all of the tanks we can move down the line to the drain field.

Septic Drain Field Inspection

As the treated sewage leaves the septic tank(s) it flows into the drain field. This is the most expensive portion of the septic system. The drain field is found by using a probe rod that we push into the ground. When we hit the stone gravel in the drain field we know that we’ve found it. From here we can determine the size, shape, and type of system. When we inspect the drain field we are primarily concerned about the moisture level in the field. We push the probe rod down into the bottom of the stone and measure the level of standing liquid in the drain field. If the liquid level is above the stone the drain field is unsatisfactory. If the liquid level is near the top of the stone we can run a hydraulic load test. Depending on the type of system we can determine if the standing liquid is close enough to the top for more testing.

If you want to learn more about drain fields and drain field problems click here.

How a Buyer Can Prepare For a Septic Inspection

Ask Questions

During the inspection you can feel free to ask us as many questions as you like. We love well informed clients. It’s one of the reasons we created this blog, so that you can learn about the system you’re investing in. We will typically find every component in the system and then come and walk you through our field survey. This allows us to know everything that could be wrong in the system before we walk you through and we can give you a tour of your system explaining how it works.

Read materials ahead of time

When we talk to clients they can seem inundated with all of the new information. You are trying to picture how everything works, plus you are trying to grasp the problems with the system. On top of that, you may have your home inspection going on as well. This can create an overload of information. If you spend a little bit of time before the inspection getting an idea of how a system works and problems that can arise, you will understand a lot more the day of the inspection.

Of course the best place to start is right here on our blog. We are constantly updating our website with information that is relevant to your specific system. After the home sale keep coming back to see tips on maintenance. There are other sites out there that offer some information but they are hard to find and some of the information is untrustworthy. One I would recommend, however, is the EPA’s website. They have a few nice summaries on the septic system and basic maintenance.

How a Home Seller Can Prepare For a Septic Inspection

Do NOT Pump the Tank Before the Inspection

Sometimes a pumper will recommend pumping your tank before you put your home on the market. Don’t listen to them! When you pump a tank it throws off the inspection. If a tank is pumped out the sewage that would go out into the drain field is instead filling the tanks back up again. This allows the drain field to dry out. It would be the same as a having a vacant home for a few weeks. It doesn’t give an accurate representation of the drain field’s ability to drain. When an inspector observes that the septic tank has been pumped out he will require a hydraulic load test. Plus, you will have to pay to pump the tanks out again after the buyer’s inspection is done.

Septic Inspection Precertification

Imagine you put your house on the market. Everything looks good after the home inspection and the buyers are excited to get to settlement. And then the septic inspection comes back unsatisfactory. Now you are stuck in a process of replacing a tank or a new drain field. A replacement drain field will require permits, running perc tests with the health department, bidding out to contractors, and major construction. This can really throw a wrench into what could have been an easy sale.

This is why we recommend a septic system precertification before you put your home on the market. Even if it isn’t as major as a new drain field, it’s best to know ahead of time if there are any repairs or replacements needed. This will take a lot of stress off during the home sale process, plus the realtor will have a septic report to help market the home.

Gather Any Paperwork on the Septic System

Before the inspector shows up it can help the inspection process to have any permits or previous septic inspections present. A permit helps finding the location of every component of the system. If there is a secondary septic tank or an extra trench that was hidden sometimes only having a permit will help find these. If you received a septic inspection before you put your house on the market, or you have an inspection from when you sold your home hold on to that report. Having a second report to show any information that was previously disclosed may help you show the next inspector anything they might have missed.

Know that you can use a second inspection.

It can be a huge let down when there is a problem found with your septic system. If there is a major problem like a new tank or drain field, it is best to get a second opinion. The first inspector may have missed something that led him to the wrong conclusion. If thousands of dollars are at stake a second opinion inspection may well be worth the money. When we do a second opinion inspection we will look at what the previous inspector has reported. We then perform our own field survey, inspect each component individually and submit a final report.

What if my septic inspection did not pass?

If your drain field is unsatisfactory even after getting a second opinion you will have to start the process for a new replacement installation. This requires a contractor/designer to work with the health department to run perc tests, soils descriptions and find a new absorption area. When we design a septic system we make sure that the system is one that will work for your soils and has a reasonable price tag.

Hydraulic Load Test

When an inspector sticks a probe rod into a drain field he is assuming that there have been constant flows into the septic system. If there is no sewage entering the drain field there is no way to tell if the drain field is working properly. This is where a hydraulic load test becomes necessary.

The idea behind a hydraulic load test is to introduce a specified amount of water into the field to see if it is working properly. A hydraulic load test will be necessary whenever there has been an interruption of, or changes to, the typical daily flows of wastewater. This can occur because of a vacant home or because a component on the septic system has been fixed and now it needs to be tested. Even a home being vacant for one week is enough time for the liquid level in a drain field to be affected.

This may seem like a short amount of time to throw off an inspection. But, consider how often you leave your home for longer than 7 days. Most people don’t go on vacations at that length except for once a year. The rest of the year that drain field is receiving constant flows of wastewater. We want to test the drain field when it looks the way it would for most of the year.

How long does a septic inspection take?

The amount of time for a septic inspection to be completed depends upon how long it takes to find and uncover every component of the septic system. We work to be both thorough and efficient. Giving an exact time is difficult because it depends on the type of septic system that is being inspected. If a system has more components, and they are all difficult to locate, than it will take much more time to inspect.

It’s important to know that a septic inspection may sometimes require multiple days. Make sure that there is enough time before the end of your agreement period to get all testing done. The most common reason for an inspection to last several days is when a hydraulic load test is needed. If you weren’t expecting a hydraulic load test, then it can be a scramble to schedule in the necessary additional testing. We recommend that you give us a call as early in the agreement period as possible. We also try to work with you as much as possible to get your report completed within your agreement period.

One other factor to keep in mind is rainfall. Heavy rain can throw off an inspection and the septic system should be given 48 hours of recovery after the storm has ended. This is not a common issue and would only be necessary in significant rainstorms.

What is included in a septic inspection?

Besides the actual inspection process a septic inspection includes two things: a septic inspection report and a sewer line video.

We write every septic report within 24 hours of the inspection. Within the report we will explain all of our findings and any actions that need to be taken. These are again summarized at the end of the report. We also add a few basic tips on maintaining your system.

When we inspect the sewer line we will record it on video. This allows us to show any problems that arise. We will send this video along with the septic inspection report for your personal records.

Hopefully this guide has given you some confidence when you are planning to buy or sell a house with a septic system. Having a little bit of knowledge on septic inspections can make your day of testing a lot easier to understand. We’ll keep updating our blog about your specific septic system and how to maintain it.

If you would like to learn much more about inspections and septic systems in general click here to learn about our ebook.

July 31, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

How a Septic Drain Field Works

When it comes to septic systems the septic drain field (also called leach field) it can remain a mystery to many people. Unlike the tank a drain field typically has no markers. The drain field tends to go unnoticed until there is a problem. This is a shame since the drain field is the most expensive component of a septic system. Understanding your leach field can help increase the longevity of your septic system and save you a lot of money. Once you take a look at how a basic drain field works we can see how problems can arise.

Would you like to feel much more comfortable about owning and maintaining your septic system? Check out our ebook below. It is filled with in depth knowledge on all things septic, yet is easily skimmable.

Drain Field Layout

A typical drain field has three main components: good soil, aggregate, and perforated pipe. A drainfield works through a simple process. The perforated pipe receives the effluent (waste from the septic tank) and distributes it among the aggregate and as it trickles through the aggregate the soil receives the effluent. The soil will filter out the harmful bacteria and reintroduce it back to the water table.

When the septic tank is done breaking down the waste it spills over to the drain field. The effluent is distributed evenly through perforated pipes. Perforated pipes are pipes that have holes close to the bottom. The perforated pipes run the length of the drain field and as the as the effluent fills the pipes it spills out evenly the length of the field. Once the effluent leaves the pipe it enters into the aggregate.

Aggregate is made of stone and in some pressure dose systems a layer of stone and sand underneath. The purpose of the aggregate is to evenly disperse the effluent so that there is equal absorption in the soil. The effluent trickles through the stone and spreads itself evenly on top of the soil. If the soil underneath the stone becomes saturated the stone aggregate will begin to fill up. This is why an inspector will stick a probe rod into the aggregate. If the effluent level goes up to or beyond the stone aggregate, there is no more usable soil on the sides or bottom of the drain field. This is why it is so important to have good soil.

The soil is the foundation to a functioning drain field. When you install a septic system the first step is to have a septic system designer and a health department representative come out and run tests. Much of these tests are looking at your soil; seeing what it is comprised of and how it drains. If you have sandy soil it is going to drain well. Other soils that are more clay-like will not drain as well and may require a larger drain field to compensate for lack of good drainage. These tests involve digging test pits and running a percolation test (or “perc” test).

Now that we know how a drain field works we can take a look at what can go wrong in a field.

Drain Field Problems

When you see spots of thick,lime green grass starting to grow above your drain field that means that it is malfunctioning. But, how did it get there? It is all about the soil. As the soil begins to be filled up of effluent and sludge the capacity of the soil decreases and the effluent begins to seep out of the ground.

The best way to understand this is to think of the drain field as a sponge. As a sponge fills up it fills all the spaces in the sponge. In a drain field that void space gets filled in with sludge over time and it loses its ability to hold as much water. The liquid then moves upward since it has no place to go.

A drainfield can also be affected by too much water entering into the system. To go back to the sponge analogy. If you keep filling a sponge with water it will hold it until it has time to drain or dry out. In the same way if a leach field is receiving more water than it should it will not be able to keep up with excess wastewater and will eventually spill out on the ground. Not only that, but the soils can be permanently damaged. This means that the system may never go back to the way it was before it received the excess flows.

This is why it is so important to make sure that you are not using more water than you need and there is no excess water exiting your home into your septic system. Some major problems would be a well back-flushing too often or a sump pump directed into the sewer line. Sump pumps can be particularly dangerous. If you have excessive rainfall much of that rain is falling on your drain field plus the sump pump is adding extra water from the basement. Several heavy rainfalls could cause permanent damage to your system. You should look for any leaky faucets or toilets regularly and check to make sure your condensate line from your air conditioning unit is not entering the sewer line. Even a small trickle like this will cause damage down the road.

One other way to damage a drain field is by compacting soils. This is done with constant driving over a field or by having large construction vehicles running across the field. How does this affect the drain field? It comes down to the much needed void space in the drain field. As the soils compact they lose the ability to hold any wastewater and the field becomes useless. Heavy construction trucks have enough weight to crush the pipes in the field as well. This creates a blockage in the field that reduces its drainage area. It is very beneficial to know where your drain field is located exactly, if you are planning to drive near the field. The same goes with construction. Let your builders know that the field is forbidden to drive on. Large construction vehicles have enough weight to ruin your field. If you don’t know where your field is located you can have your pumper find it during regular maintenance or ask an inspector to come out and find it for you.

Locating Your Drain Field

As a homeowner, it is in your benefit to know where your drain field is located. If you have a septic inspection done before you buy your house see if they can show where the drain field is in the report. Our reports will have a picture of where the drain field is located. There are a few reasons why this helps you maintain your septic system.

As stated above, you should make sure no one is driving over your drain field. This goes for construction as well.
Many homeowners want to plant trees. Trees can be very damaging to a drain field. We will talk about this later on.
You want to make sure that no excess water is pouring over your drain field. Any rainwater from a roof leader or excess runoff can damage a system over time.
As part of regular maintenance, a good pumper will probe your field to let you know how much moisture is in it now.
It is good to look for any signs of malfunctioning. If the drain field starts to look like there are patches of heavy bright green grass, then there is a good chance that sewage is coming out of the field.

Drain Fields and Trees

Another major factor in the health of your septic system is tree growth. Without knowing where your field is many times people will plant trees on top of the system or very close by. When we do inspections this can be a red flag. The main concern is the roots that grow into the field. You might think that this will help the drainage, but it does just the opposite. The tree roots will enter into the pipes and form a “root ball.” This is a collection of fine root hairs that clog up the pipe. The sludge then gets caught in the hairs and creates a watertight seal. This stops the pipe from directing the waste throughout the system. Inevitably, the area before the stoppage receives all of the liquid and starts to saturate. Trees can damage the life-expectancy of a drain field because you are not using the field to its full capacity. Its best to remove all trees near any septic system within a 10 foot radius. If you are planting a tree make sure you know where your drain field is located. The farther the tree is planted away from any component of a septic system the better.

Hopefully, by now the drain field is a little bit less of a mystery to you. There is still plenty to learn about your particular drain field and how to maintain it. We will keep posting information about drain fields and how you can maintain yours.

In the meantime, check out our ebook, it will prepare you to deal with any issue as a septic system owner.

July 10, 2017 by admin 2 Comments

Complete Guide to Your Septic Tank

When sewage leaves your house and into your septic system the first component it reaches is the septic tank. All the greywater and waste fills up the tank before it flows out into your absorption area. The septic tank is typically the most obvious structure of your septic system, yet many wonder how it works.

If you’d like to know much more about septic systems check out our ebook in the link below. It covers septic tanks, septic systems, maintenance and much more.

How A Septic Tank Works

When you first open up a septic tank you will notice that the tank is full and close to the top with sewage. The first thought is typically that the tank is ready for pumping. However, this is the level that a tank normally operates. As the tank fills up it spills over into the drain field.

You may wonder why the sewage and other waste doesn’t just empty directly into the drain field. Why would there be tanks to fill up when it just spills over into the field anyway? The septic tank is there for one main function: to allow waste to settle after the bacteria has broken it down. This may seem trivial but it is a pivotal action for a functioning system. If you could slice a septic tank in half you could distinguish three different layers.

The top layer is the floating solids (or scum). This contains oils, fats, greases, and anything else that did not break down from the anaerobic bacteria.
At the very bottom is sludge. Both the floating solids and the sludge are the key reasons for pumping out your septic tank regularly. If those solids and semi-solid sludge go out into your drain field the lifespan will greatly decrease.
Between the sludge and floating solids is the clarified effluent. This is the only waste that can go out into the field, and it should comprise the bulk of your waste in the tank.

The bacteria in the tank is comprised of anaerobic bacteria. Anaerobic bacteria is any bacteria that can grow without oxygen. This is why you can close up a septic tank lid and is still able to break down the waste. The waste can pour into the tank, hold the waste, and exit because of the design of the tank.

A tank is designed with the inlet pipe about 3 to 4 inches above the outlet pipe. This allows the sewage to enter the tank without backing up into the house. The question now arises how the clarified effluent exits the tank without the floating solids coming with it, and this is where baffles come in.

Baffles

Baffles, although a simple design, play a very important part in the longevity of your septic system. There are two baffles in your septic tank. One is an inlet baffle and the other is an outlet baffle.

The inlet baffle’s job is to direct any waste down into the tank without the waste churning up the solids in the tank. This allows for the tank to settle and the different layers to develop. As the tank fills up and the waste begins to settle the effluent reaches the outlet baffle.

The outlet baffle usually looks exactly like the inlet but has a slightly different use. As the waste in the tank rises it goes up the outlet baffle. The floating solids will be blocked by the baffle exterior while the effluent spills out into the drain field.

Inlet Observation Port

The first part of your tank you may see is the inlet observation port. This is typically a 4 inch pipe with a white cap on top. If you haven’t found it yet your lawn mower will. Although they can be frustrating when mowing they are useful for several reasons.

They mark where the tank is located. This saves a lot of time when pumping out your tank or inspecting the system.
If someone is inspecting your sewer line and cannot access it from the home, they can also use the inlet observation port and go back through to the house.
The inlet observation port is also very useful to check for any unnecessary trickles into your septic system. Make sure it’s been at least 20 minutes since something has drained into the septic system and then check to see if there are any slow trickles coming in. This is something you can do about twice a year to make sure everything is working correctly.

Septic Tank Lid

Just beyond your inlet observation port you will have your septic tank lid. This covers your central manhole of your tank. This is where all pumping should be done. It is a large opening between 18” to 24” and sometimes larger.

Many people don’t like the look of a septic tank lid on their lawn. But, if it is visible, it can save your pumper a lot of time and potentially some money for you. Some pumping companies will charge an extra fee if they have to dig too deep to find the lid. During a home sale, if the lid is too low an inspector will require the lid to be brought up closer to the top of the soil. It’s best to keep track of where your lids are located. This is useful for maintenance and so you can disclose their location if you sell your home.

Knowing where your lids are located is a good way to look for any damage. Concrete lids can crack if they are not placed back gently. Sometimes a piece of the lid will chip off and will create a gap for water and dirt to flow into the tank. This can add extra strain to your drain field over time.

Septic Tank Pumping

Another common question we receive is “how often should I pump my tank?” This has a very simple answer: minimally it should be every two years. There is, however, some important things to look out for when someone comes to pump your septic tank.

Remember, we said that the idea of pumping is to remove the floating solids on top and the sludge on the bottom. To do this a pumper needs to access the manhole in the center of the tank. The manhole gives the pumper enough room to swing his pump hose to grab any floating solids. The central manhole can also help them to see much more of the tank and know if a good portion of the solids are removed.

Make sure that your pumper is not feeding his pump hose through your inlet observation port. This can break your inlet baffle off and the pumper cannot see the amount of solids left in the tank.

If by the end of the pumping many solids are left over. A good pumper will back flush some of what he pumped out to mix up the solids on the bottom and then vacuum up what is left. There will always be a little bit of solids left over, a septic tank is considered clean when there is 1 inch or less of liquid left in the tank.

Once everything is pumped out they can shine a flashlight into the tank and check for any cracks, roots, or deterioration below the previous liquid level.

If you are looking for a reliable pumper give us a call to schedule a pump out.

Different Types of Septic Tanks

There are an array of septic tanks that can be offered. Therefore, it is important to ask the question “What kind of septic tank do I have?” Here are a few that we see the most often.

Primary and Secondary Tanks

In 1997, Pennsylvania required a secondary settling tank to all newly installed systems. This means that if you replaced your drainfield and applied for a permit, you would also need to add a second tank. The reasoning behind this was that the first tank was settling all the solids but there was still some spilling out into the drain field. This second tank provided an extra treatment area that would settle the solids and break down more of the waste. Any solids you can see in the secondary tank would be going out into the drain field if that tank didn’t exist.

The secondary tank is typically located right after the primary tank. Most of the time it’s smaller and has a capacity of about one-half of the primary tank. If you have a completely new septic system installed after 1997 many times your installer used a cheaper method than two tanks. This is called a dual-chamber tank.

Dual-chamber Septic Tank

A dual-chamber tank uses chambers instead of separate tanks. This is one large rectangular tank with a wall in the middle. A common size for a dual-chamber tank is a 1,250-gallon tank. This holds 750 gallons in the first chamber and 500 in the next.

The main benefit to a dual-chamber septic tank is the reduction in price to install. There is only one hole to dig and one tank to place in. These are the go-to when a new system is installed. Unless the primary tank is in great condition, an installer will recommend a dual-chamber tank.

If you have a dual-chamber tank make sure you have both chambers pumped out. They should both be readily accessible for pumping. Sometimes the second chamber lid is buried deeper than the first chamber. This can make the pumper think that there is only one chamber to pump out. Being aware that you have a dual-chamber tank and that there are two lids can help you maintain your system.

Holding Tank

Many people use the terms “holding tank” and “septic tank” interchangeably. There is, however, major differences between the two. A holding tank is much larger and has a typical volume of 2000 gallons. The tank has no outlet and it “holds” in all the sewage that enters it. Every bit of wastewater that leaves the house stays in the holding tank. A holding tank has a float switch near the top. When the sewage gets close to the top of the tank, the switch will flip and an alarm will go off. This alerts the homeowner to call a pumper to come out and pump the holding tank. As you can see, this means a holding tank can have drastically more expensive maintenance than a typical septic system. Quite frequently, if you own a holding tank you will have to pump on a monthly basis. Every ounce of water usage needs to be pumped and hauled.

Why would someone use a holding tank? There can be several reasons. Sometimes, the home has no place to put a septic system and no hookup for public sewage. The holding tank is the only option that a home has. A more likely option is that the home doesn’t receive much use. If your home is a vacation home that you only use for part of the year, then an entire septic system might not be worth the money.

Cesspool

If you have a cesspool you may not have a septic tank. This is because a cesspool will act as both a septic tank and an absorption area. They are no longer installed and are an older type of septic system. Cesspools are made by digging a deep pit. An installer built it into a large cylindrical structure with cinder block lining the sides and open dirt on the bottom. The cinder blocks are laid on top of one another without any mortar in between. The lack of mortar allows the sewage to seep between the cracks into the surrounding soil. When the soil on the bottom can no longer drain the cesspool starts to fill up. Over time all of the surrounding soil can no longer hold the sewage and the cesspool fills up to the top. At this point the cesspool is no longer usable.

All the solids that would settle in a tank and eventually be pumped out, instead are kept in your absorption area. The solids will eventually fill up the soil and keep it from draining. You should treat a cesspool as if it were a septic tank and have regular pumping maintenance on it every two years.

Aerobic Tank

In all the tanks we have mentioned so far they all contain anaerobic bacteria to break down the waste before it enters the drain field. The aerobic tank uses aerobic bacteria for treatment of sewage. As we know already anaerobic bacteria thrives in a lack of oxygen. Aerobic tanks promote airflow so that bacteria that uses oxygen (aerobic bacteria) can grow.

The tank has two extra components that allows the aerobic bacteria to grow: a mechanism for producing air supply and propagation media (usually a honeycombed structure). The honeycombed sides create a texture for the aerobic bacteria to grow. The air supply is what adds the oxygen into the tank.

The main benefit of aerobic tanks is that it will help the soils in the drain field to last much longer. The anaerobic bacteria in typical systems adds sludge and can pull oxygen out of the soil which affects its ability to drain.

Septic Tank Problems

Septic tanks are built to be sturdy. They tank manufacturer pours them to be about 3 inches thick. They are meant to last 25 years; which is a long time, but not forever. Eventually the tank starts to show signs of deterioration. This can come in many forms but here are the most common.

Chemical Reaction

As the bacteria starts to break down the sewage in the tank they release gases above the liquid level. The bacteria above the liquid level turns those gases into sulfuric acid. Over time the sulfuric acid builds up to a point where the concrete will break down. Because of this reaction on the top part of the tank; a crucial part of inspecting tanks involves looking above the liquid level to see any structural damage.

This reaction can not only ruin the tank itself, but be the initial cause for the following septic tank problems.

Exposed Rebar

Rebar can become exposed by the concrete eventually deteriorating and showing the rebar. This is a major red flag for septic inspectors. An inspector will deem a tank unsatisfactory if they observe exposed or rusted rebar. Once you see rebar you can deduce that the concrete in the tank has become mushy and is crumbling.

Deteriorated Baffles

Many tanks have concrete baffles that jut out into the tank. Since baffles have more surface area exposed to the chemical reactions caused by bacteria; they are usually the first component inside the tank to break down.

Once the baffles go you lose their important functioning. The outlet baffle is the most important one. If there is no outlet baffle then nothing is holding back the solids from floating out into the drain field.

Cracks in the Tank

When an installer places a tank in the ground there can be a few feet of soil cover on top. That soil adds a significant amount of weight to the top of the tank. Over time this weight, coupled with the chemical reaction in the tank weakening the structure, will create cracks in the tank. They usually start on the top of the tank. The deeper the tank is buried the higher the chance that a crack will occur.

Root Intrusion

Many times people will plant trees and large bushes right up next to their septic tanks. They may have planted these to help spruce up their landscape, but have unwittingly risked the structure of their tanks.

The tree roots will start to break through the concrete tanks and cause structural deficiencies. This may seem odd that a tree has the power to go through thick concrete. But, over time the thin roots work their way into tank walls. Once they are through they will start to thicken over time. The expansion of the roots will cause cracking and ultimately a crumbling tank.

This is something a pumper should keep their eye on during regular maintenance pumping. When the roots are still thin you can hire someone to cut them out and pull them away from the tank. As a homeowner it is important to keep trees at least 15 feet away from any component of the septic system.

By now you should have a good base of knowledge for understanding septic tanks. From here you can grasp a little more when an inspector or pumper talks about your tank. This will assist you in maintaining your system and buying/selling a new home.

If you own or are preparing to buy your first septic system and would like a firm foundation of knowledge on septic systems and maintenance click here to learn about our ebook.